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CHEAP EATS: WHERE TO EAT FOR LESS THAN $13 AN ENTREE

Fresh City brings its fun, fast cooking stations to Illinois

By William Hageman
Tribune staff reporter
Published December 15, 2005

First impressions: Our first thought was, where do you park? It was 6:30 on a Friday night, and customers from the nearby Cantera Super Mega Multiplex Cinema Experience monopolized every space near Fresh City. (Note: Parking was a breeze on a Wednesday evening follow-up visit.)

Fresh City itself is well-lit, clean and welcoming, the first outpost in Illinois of this New England-based franchise. There's a line of cooking stations that patrons step up to, sort of like a cafeteria, where they can order food and watch it being made. Across the aisle is a long, serve-yourself salad bar. On a busy night, it gets hectic. Even when the pace is slower and you have time to chat, you'll be in and out in under 45 minutes. Fresh City isn't necessarily destination dining, but you won't do much better if you want a varied, tasty menu, speed and convenience.

On the plate: It's wraps, burritos, sandwiches, soups, salads, stir fry and Asian noodles. Like the name implies, everything is fresh--both the ingredients and the finished product, which is prepared in front of you.

At your service: First-time visitors likely will be overwhelmed by the cooking stations and wall-mounted menus with dozens of items. Just look confused. Someone from Fresh City will swoop in and ask if you need help. We were approached by a hostess who asked if we were first-timers; when we said yes, she thoroughly explained the ordering process, in which you step to the counter, order, then have it handed to you seconds after it's made. The counter help is personable and helpful too.

Once we were seated, both the hostess and a manager stopped by to make sure we were doing OK. We even had an offer of help when we were clearing away our trays and dishes.

Second helpings: The Bourbon Street muffaletta was a winner. Not as huge as the original from the Central Grocery in New Orleans, but still satisfying, with a nice heft and good flavor. And we found a lot to like--the chicken soup (more so on our first visit than the second), the chicken burrito grande (stuffed with roasted chicken, Spanish rice, black beans, cheddar and salsa), the Shanghai chicken wrap, the Caesar salad ... all excellent. Also, a self-described "picky vegetarian" in our party was impressed with the large number of options available to her.

Portions are more than adequate. And if you like root beer, grab a bottle of Stewart's. Great stuff.

Take a pass: The cheesecake brownie. It just wasn't happening. A little dry, and the taste didn't move us. And the spicy satay peanut Asian noodle dish was just OK (we like it spicier).

Extras: Beer and wine are available, and don't miss the complimentary sweet pita chips as you come in. Food to go? Call ahead and they'll have it ready.

Price range: Wraps and sandwiches, $4.99-$6.99; Asian noodles, $6.49; stir fry, $5.99-$7.99; salad bar, $3.79 and $6.29; desserts, $1.29-$1.69; drinks, $1.39-$1.99.

Fresh City
(2 forks)
Cantera Commons
28258 Diehl Rd., Warrenville 630-821-7974
Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V.
Noise: Conversation challenged at peak hours.
Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking, free parking.

Nearby
Pass the popcorn: The AMC Cantera 30 is across the parking lot, making for a convenient and inexpensive dinner-and-a-show evening.

That time of year: The Chicago Premium Outlets mall is just a couple miles west off I-88 (take the Farnsworth North exit). There are 120 stores, including Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani, Nike, Versace, Banana Republic; 630-585-2200. And remember, it's open-air, so dress warmly.

Ratings key: 4 forks, don't miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks; very good; 1 fork, good

Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members; meals are paid for by the Tribune.
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whageman@tribune.com